Tuxedo suits for men: a brief history
The history of the tuxedo, or dinner suit as it may be referred to in England, is deeply intertwined with the evolution of the dress code within the British aristocracy. The genesis of the tuxedo suit can be traced back to the second half of the 19th century when societal norms and fashion were undergoing a significant transformation. The famous English tailcoat, the traditional evening wear of the Victorian era, deemed too restrictive needed a more pragmatic counterpart. The dinner jacket presented a more relaxed and comfortable option, especially for private dinners and less formal gatherings.
By then, the legendary tuxedo, first seen in Tuxedo Park, New York, had made its way across the Atlantic, capturing the attention of British aristocrats and tailors. Savile Row, the renowned hub of London tailoring, embraced this new black-tie suit style complete with a shorter length and satin lapels, and were quick to adapt it to British sensibilities.
As the dinner jacket became an integral part of formal and semi-formal occasions in England, it became a symbol of refined elegance. It is now a staple at events such as black-tie dinners, weddings, and prestigious social functions. Despite the evolution of fashion, the dinner jacket's core elements remain consistent, preserving its timeless appeal and connection to British sartorial history.
What does a formal evening suit consist of?
The composition and detail of a tuxedo suit has changed overtime, but a few strong stylistic essentials remain. Here are the essential components without which the ensemble would not fit cultural codes.
The Tuxedo Jacket
Tailored relatively short and the jacket can be of two colours black or midnight blue. The classic design features satin or silk-faced peak lapels that match a silk stripe down the trouser leg. A few variations are commonly accepted: the jacket can be single-breasted with one button or double-breasted. A shawl collar in satin or silk can be an alternative lapel style. Over the years, variations in lapel styles and accessories have emerged, allowing for personal expression within the confines of formal attire.
The Tuxedo Trousers
The trousers are made from the same fabric as the jacket and feature a silk or satin stripe down each leg that matches the fabric used on the lapels. Tuxedo trousers are traditionally flat-fronted with a clean, streamlined look. They are usually tailored with a straight leg but a slim fit version also exists nowadays.
Dress Shirt
A crisp, white dress shirt with a turned-down collar is a fundamental part of the black-tie suit. The shirt may have a pleated front or a plain front. It often features French cuffs to accommodate cufflinks.
Black-tie Suit Accessories
The standard choice is to opt for a black silk or satin bow tie to add a finishing touch to the formal look. A cummerbund, a pleated waistband-like accessory, or a waistcoat (vest) is often worn to cover the waist area. Other elements like cufflinks and a pocket square allow for further personalisation.
What shoes to wear with a tuxedo suit?
Black patent leather or highly polished black dress shoes are the ideal footwear for a black-tie suit. The shoes should be understated and formal, complementing the overall elegance of the outfit.
Dormeuil and the tuxedo suit
The deep heritage of the dinner suit runs in every fibre of Dormeuil’s Grain de Poudre and Tuxedos collection which will be launched for summer 2024 season. Based on our Barathea fabric which has been a long term favourite for many haute couture fashion houses, this collection is entirely dedicated to evening wear and black-tie suits. We all navigate significant life events, and this collection was carefully designed in reverence to these rites of passage.
Our wish is to allow the wearer to feel at ease in an impeccable tuxedo suit, both in physical comfort and personality, much of which is dependent on suit fabric choices. The perfect drape and matte appearance makes sure each suit fits the dress code. We’ve also added a touch of refined texture for those who want a more sophisticated hand feel. Choose between RWS certified worsted wool, super 170’s wool or a fine sateen blend of worsted wool, silk and cashmere. All acceptable for tuxedo suit codes while each providing a unique feel.
Remember, formal black-tie suits aren’t what they used to be. No longer a crusty uniform, a good tuxedo suit now reflects the wearer’s personality. So do not let historical codes stop you from infusing your outfit with your sartorial flair. Our desire for the Grain de Poudre and Tuxedos collection is to offer just that : freedom to be yourself and ultimate elegance.