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Dormeuil’s manufacturing premises

From yarn to fabric

Renowned for its exceptional properties, Yorkshire’s water provides a unique advantage when it comes to fabric finishing. All our fabrics combine traditional methods and innovative techniques for a soft finish and impeccable drape.

1.Bringing
a collection to life

The fabrics in each collection are created by Dominic Dormeuil and his Design team, before being prototyped at Dormeuil’s premises in Yorkshire, England. The House of Dormeuil designs a new fabric collection twice a year.

Mouton merinos sheep Dormeuil

2. Warping

Warping consists of unwinding the yarn cones onto a warp beam ready for weaving. The warp yarns are wound at an even tension and in parallel in a specific order, a process known as drawing-in.

3. Weave

The weave is produced by interlacing warp (vertical) yarns and weft (horizontal) yarns at a specified frequency.

There are more than one hundred types of weave, with three being used most widely.

Plain weave

For a plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned to form a simple criss-cross weave. Each weft thread crosses a warp thread by passing over it, then under the next one, and so on in regular fashion.

Serge weave

This type of weave is created by passing the weft thread under two warp threads then over two more, offsetting by one thread for each pick to give the fabric its diagonal effect.

Satin weave

The satin weave is characterised by four or more weft threads floating over the warp thread or conversely, four or more threads passing under it.

Stage

4. Darning

The darners painstakingly examine the fabric using a powerful magnifying device which allows all the fabrics to be repaired by hand, using a needle.

Stage

5. Burling

At the same time as darning, all the knots are removed to ensure a perfectly smooth surface for finishing.

Stage

6. Finishing

This involves transforming the raw fabric coming off the loom into finished fabric that can be used to make clothing. Dormeuil uses more than 50 different finishing techniques, including high pressure washing, stabilisation treatments, steaming and singeing.

This is where the very rarest fabrics come into their own, ready to be fashioned into the finest garments.

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